The Only FIVE Suits Guys Need

The Only FIVE Suits Guys Need

When you’re buying a suit, the most important factor is fit. This cannot be stressed enough. Fit, fit, fit. Consider it a mantra. You can drop $1,000 or more on a suit, but if the shoulder pads extend well beyond your shoulders or you can comfortably fit a baby between you and your jacket, the suit has lost almost all its value. Conversely, an inexpensive suit can look like a $1,000 suit if it’s perfectly tailored. The price point and designer label of your suit should be academic. It is all about the fit, color and fabric.


Here are the five suits in descending order of importance:


The Wool Navy Suit

If you only have one suit in your wardrobe, make it a single-breasted navy wool suit. Solid navy implies professionalism and respectfulness—respect for yourself and your audience, whether your audience is small (you’re meeting with a colleague) or large (you’re giving the State of the Union address). Plus, have you ever noticed navy looks good with literally everyone’s complexion?

Rule: Don’t worry about labels so much as quality of material. Suits are graded by fineness of wool, which is reflected in the “super” number. You can often find it on the tag, but if you’re not sure, ask. Look for a super number in the low to mid 100s range (finer and lighter than the courser 80s and 90s but not as expensive, thin, and easily snag as the upper 100s and higher).


The Cotton Khaki Suit

The suit for spring and summer is cotton khaki in a sandy color; not too dark, but not too pale, which shows every spot. Wear it to work with a crisp white button down and a colorful pocket square; dress it down on the weekend by removing your jacket and wearing a plaid shirt you with the sleeves rolled up.

Rule: Never wear a cotton khaki suit during the fall or winter, and consider your office’s dress code before wearing it to work; it’s considered less formal than wool.


The Wool Charcoal Suit

Like navy, charcoal is supremely versatile, looks excellent with brown, black, and burgundy shoes and belts, and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

Rule: If it’s a two-button suit, only button the top button. Dry clean it as infrequently as possible (the chemicals they use to dry clean shortens the life of your suit), and hang it up after every wearing on a proper wooden hanger. Please do not use wire hangers.


The Patterned Suit

A pattern allows you to show a bit more personality without going overboard, and unlike solid mid-grey (which isn’t as slimming as charcoal, black or navy), actually helps distract from bulges.

Rule: If the pattern of your suit is very visible from afar (glen plaid, for example), stick with solid shirts and ties; if it looks solid from afar, treat it like a solid. Give it a squeeze in the store. Quality fabric should spring back without creasing.


The Black Suit

Instead of buying a tuxedo as the fifth suit, you’ll get more for your money with a suit in classic black. The benefit of a black suit versus a tux is that it can be worn not only to black tie weddings and cocktail parties, but to sober gatherings, too.

Rule: At a funeral, go with a white shirt and black tie. Save colors, patterns, and flashy accessories for festive occasions. And keep in mind: navy and grey are more appropriate for work or interviews.


Final words on tailoring

There’s a pretty good chance that, even if you’re the same size as the models, you left the store with imperfectly fitted suits. Maybe the sleeves fall past your knuckles or there are about three breaks of fabric at the bottom of your pants. That’s fine for suits you’ve just purchased. But don’t wear them until they've been tailored. Tailor does not mean the “very nice guy” at your lovely dry cleaner who hems all your pants. The only person with whom you should entrust your beautiful suits is a professional tailor who does this for a living, and even then, not just any tailor. Do your homework and find the best one. Ask the best dressed guy you know where he gets his clothing tailored and start there. Once you locate him, all you have to do is show up and stand there while he starts pinning, transforming your suits into masterpieces.